Each Spring with the coming of warm days and drier sunshine, I anticipate the arrival of the new vintage of dry French rose, in particular the rose from Domaine Tempier in Bandol. Tempier has its fair share of fame, touted the “best rose in the world” by importer Kermit Lynch and “rose of the year” by Wine Spectator for the most recent vintage, but it is not the awards or the accolades, it is the sheer quality and elegance of the wine that excites this wine drinker.
The wine is from a small, family run winery in the south of France, in a region that most have never heard of, never mind ever enjoyed. Bandol lost much of its crops, like so many others in France, during the European phylloxera epidemic (and, yes, it was our fault). Leonie Tempier replanted and nurtured his vineyards back to health and a generation later his granddaughter, Lulu, and her husband, Lucien Peyraud, brought the vineyard out of economic crisis, establishing Bandol’s first DOC. This family has lovingly worked so hard to keep their beautiful wines available to us. This history is played out for me each year when I taste the new vintage—each one has distinctly its own flavors and subtle textural differences. 2009 is rich and elegant. The soft salmon color of the wine deceives and the palate anticipates a light flavor, but this rose is flavorful, intense, and distinct. Aromas of peach, raspberry, and pomegranate are followed by concentrated fruit, and pleasant, creamy, fresh flavors that fill the mouth. The acidity is balanced, with hints of lime and subtle minerality that cleanses the palate. It is satisfying, complex, and refreshing.
I suggested to one shopper that I would liken it to the essence of key lime pie, much in the way that Belgian Trappist Ale drinks like liquid bread pudding , but perhaps my analogy is too pedestrian for this elegant wine. I don’t know about you, but I have had some pretty fabulous key lime pie!
While this wine would be lovely as an aperitif, it is a fantastic accompaniment to many meals. This time, I made Lulu’s own bouillabaisse, which can be found in her cookbook, “Lulu’s Provencal Table.” Her recipe is a simple one that relies on fresh local white fish and shellfish (perfect for Rhode Island), a simple marinade of fresh fennel (and lots of it), some garlic, potatoes, leeks, saffron, and served with toasted baguette rubbed with aioli. If it sounds lovely, it is. I highly recommend this pairing, and so does Lulu. The dish is perfect with the rose, and if you are splurging, finish the meal with the rouge—also nearly 100% Mouvedre and equally delightful and satisfying. Watch for my review of the 2006 Rouge in the coming weeks!
In the meantime, eat, drink, and think.
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