If you said “Tasmanian” you would probably expect someone to follow with “devil”, but would you ever expect to hear “wine”? If you have any interest at all in exceptional wines, you should. This small island state off the southeast coast of Australia is home to more than 300 wineries that are producing vintages to rival the best of Europe’s best. Like the Pinot Noir of Burgundy, the Riesling of Germany, the Sauvignon Blanc of the Loir Valley, or the sparkling wines of Champagne, Tasmania produces exceptional quality wines in all varieties.

Unlike much of the rest of Australia, the climate in Tasmania is cooler – more like the vineyards in Europe – allowing for growth cool weather varietal grapes like Pinot Noir, which constitutes nearly half of all wine production in Tasmania. Next in production is Riesling, with nearly every Tasmanian winery producing at least one variety. When it comes to sparkling wines, nobody does it like Champagne – but Tasmania runs a close second. With a tip of their hats to Champagne’s long history of wine making and the development of skill and knowledge that comes only with time, vintners in Tasmania’s young wineries know that they are cultivating top quality fruit and producing world-class sparkling wines.

Perhaps a major contributor to the consistency of the high quality of Tasmanian wines stems from the appellation regulation that stipulates Tasmania may not use any fruit in their wines that was not grown locally. Tasmanians are very proud of the wines they produce, and local demands for them – either through retail distribution, restaurant wine programs, or cellar door sales direct from the wineries – are quite high. In fact, not much of the Tasmania’s wine gets distributed abroad because it sells out so quickly at home, making costly shipment outside the state not necessary.

The Marsanne is a rare white grape variety grown in only four countries: France, United States, Switzerland and Australia. Thought to have been cultivated originally in the Northern Rhone Valley of France, Marsanne was introduced in the Nagambie Lakes region of Victoria, Australia in the early 1860′s at Tahbilk, one of Australia’s oldest and most beautiful wineries. Although none of the original vines from this first planting survived, cuttings made from them in 1927 remain some of the world’s oldest producing vines. The vine took well to the Australian climate and the rare variety did very well at Tahbilk. So well, in fact, that Australia currently produces more than three quarters of the world’s supply of Marsanne.

The vineyard itself, located on the Golburn River, was founded in 1860, and produces traditional vines such as Merlot, Chardonnay and Reisling, as well as several Rhone red and white grape varieties, including Shiraz and the rare Marsanne. About 20% of the wine made at Tahbilk is created for export to world markets including the United Kingdom, United States and Canada, collectively. Highly regarded, Tahbilk wines have won more than 1800 gold, silver and bronze medals at the Royal Shows since 1965.

The Marsanne wines produced at Tahbilk are some of the finest in the world. Tahbilk’s flagship wines include a limited release Marsanne made from the 1927 vines. These special releases do not occur every year. The vineyard’s standard release Marsanne is said to pair well with foods at any stage of its development. A young Marsanne, with its intense citrus flavors and aromas, is equally well-suited to a ham and split pea soup as it is to a tomato crab bisque, to a robust lasagna or squash ravioli in tomato cream sauce, as is the more aged Marsanne with the distinctive honeysuckle character. Because of this versatility and palatability, Tahbilk Marsanne is sought by wine lovers worldwide.

When you think of Australia you think of a fun-filled country full of spirit and jovial people. And the burgeoning wine business in Australia is very similar. Most of the reds are light and flavorful, but lack the depth of European or California reds. My wife and I are not big white wine drinkers, but on a recent celebratory trip to Emeril’s Restaurant in New Orleans, I decided on a bubbly white wine from Australia, a 2006 Wolf Blass Brut.

We were both pleasantly surprised and happy with the selection. The white was light and not too dry or sweet. The slightly fruity flavor and effervescent bubbles were a perfect accompaniment to our happy evening and wonderful meal.

The $36 restaurant bottle price was a good value.

Australia has grown into a force in the international wine community. And one of the more recent Australian imports comes from the Razor’s Edge Winery. In 2004, they came on the scene with a Shiraz that received much critical acclaim.

Last night, we had the chance to try the 2006 Razor’s Edge McLaren Vale, Cabarnet Sauvignon. It was like many Australian Cabs in that it was smooth, but did not overwhelm you. Like most great bottlings of Cabernet, it had notes of a mild herbal aroma, which were followed by big fruit flavors.

My wife-to-be and I enjoyed the bottle along with a late evening snack of cheeses, humus, and grilled flatbread.

It was well worth the ~$12 bottle price.