California still has some producers that choose to produce wines that rely on character and flavor, and Joseph Carr is one of them. His Cabernet Sauvignon has all the boldness of American fruit with a European sensibility and balance.
Carr sources fruit from of the top growers around Napa, but he is relying mainly on Oakville for the 2007 vintage. He makes the selections very thoughtfully and carefully. All the fruit is handpicked, carefully fermented, and barrel-aged for 18-22 months in 1- and 2-year French and American oak. His process is simple and true to the grape’s potential—natural, which means the wine speaks of both its American and French heritage. In other words, it is an American expression of a French style—the best of both new and old worlds.
The wine is a deep dark purple, but has excellent clarity of color despite being unfiltered. It is youthful but delightful already—I imagine that given a few years, it would mature beautifully. The nose has scents of smoke, leather, and ripe dark berries and plums. The plum flavor is even detectable on the palate, though subtle and rich with hints of vanilla, and a pervasive tannin texture and structure that complement the ripe fruit. What struck me about the wine was that each sip revealed new flavors and subtle changes as the wine was opening.
We enjoyed the wine at Tallulah’s on Thames, one of Newport’s newest and finest restaurants. Jake Rojas, the chef and owner, puts out food that is nothing short of spectacular and his wife and partner, Kelly Ann, has created a stunning and hip atmosphere that is fun and welcoming. We sat upstairs in the wine bar, and ordered a bottle of the 07 Carr Cab. The wine was a great match for Jake’s fresh, organic, locally informed and French inspired cuisine. This chef and wine maker think alike, innovative and thoughtful in their ideas and creations, but drawing on a culture of food and wine that transcends our national boundaries. The real treat was that we were introduced to Joseph Carr and his wife, who sat with us while waiting for a table. Like his wine, he is quiet but well spoken, thoughtful and interesting, and a lot of fun. We are so excited to bring it in to Newport Wine Cellar!
Eat, drink, and think.
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